Ingredients · Other

Nori

Pyropia spp. · Bangiaceae (a red alga)

Nori
Dried red seaweed, and one of the great savoury ingredients — deeply umami, faintly sweet, with a clean marine salinity. One product carries it, as flakes in shichimi togarashi. The sheet form everyone knows is made the way paper is made, which is not a metaphor: it was invented in Asakusa in Tokyo around 1750 using the method of Japanese paper-making, and a sheet is still about 18 by 20 centimetres and 3 grams.

What it’s like, and how to use it

The partSeaweed
KindOther
CaffeineCaffeine-free
Where it is fromJapan
TasteDeeply umami and faintly sweet, with a clean marine salinity; toasting sharpens it

How to use it

As flakes in shichimi togarashi, over rice and noodles. Toasted briefly over a flame, which makes it crisp and sweetens it. It goes soft the moment it meets moisture, which is why sushi is rolled at the last minute.

With food

Rice above all. Sesame. Soy. Egg. Fish. Cucumber. Green tea.

With spices

Sesame, chile, sansho and orange peel — the shichimi togarashi family. Ginger.

With tea

Sencha, genmaicha and hojicha — nori and Japanese green tea are the same table.

Its story

Where it comes from

Usually made from species of the red algae genus Pyropia, particularly P. yezoensis and P. tenera. Japan gives more than 600 square kilometres of coastal water to producing 350,000 tonnes a year, worth more than a billion dollars. Our lot names no origin.

What happened

Nori owes its survival to a British scientist who never worked on it. After the Second World War the Japanese industry was collapsing, because nobody understood the seaweed's three-stage life cycle and seeding was left to chance. Kathleen Mary Drew-Baker, a phycologist working on a similar Welsh seaweed, published research that Japanese scientists found and applied to artificial seeding and growing. She is known in Japan as the Mother of the Sea, and there is a monument to her in Kumamoto. Japan had not cultivated nori commercially until the 1600s, though it was eaten long before that.

On the shelf with it

Every product it goes into.