Ingredients · Salt

Grey Sea Salt

Sodium chloride

Grey Sea Salt
Sel gris — the French everyday salt, and grey for a good reason rather than a bad one. In a salt marsh most of the crystal settles on the clay floor of the pond and is raked up from it; the clay is what tints it. It stays slightly moist and dissolves cleanly, and it is rounder and more complex than table salt. Two products carry it. It is a cooking salt rather than a finishing one — the thin crust skimmed off the surface of the same pond is fleur de sel, which is the finishing salt.

What it’s like, and how to use it

The partMineral
KindSalt
CaffeineCaffeine-free
Where it is fromFrance (the tradition)
TasteRounder and more complex than table salt; slightly moist, dissolving cleanly

How to use it

The everyday cooking salt — soups, brines, bread dough, pasta water. It is moist, so it clumps in a shaker and belongs in a salt pig or a bowl. Grind or pinch it. Not for baking where precise dry weight matters.

With food

Bread and butter. Soup and stock. Vegetables. Meat and fish of any kind. Caramel and chocolate.

With spices

Black pepper. Anything — it is the base of most blends that are not salt-free.

With tea

Not a tea ingredient.

Its story

Where it comes from

The tradition is Guérande in Brittany — more than 2,000 hectares of salt marsh, the Pays Blanc, the White Land. Our shop note says French; no supplier record names the saltworks, so we can tell the Guérande tradition but cannot say our salt is from Guérande.

What happened

Guérande's salt is worked by paludiers, each tending fifty to sixty crystallising ponds and harvesting sixty to ninety tonnes of grey salt a year — and until the 1950s most of them were sharecroppers, paid in a share of the salt rather than in wages. The marshes were first recorded in the cartulary of Redon, whose earliest mention of Guérande salt pans is dated 15 December 854. Their hardest history is tax: for more than four centuries the gabelle made salt one of France's most hated levies, and Brittany was one of the free provinces outside it. In 1784 Necker recorded a minot of salt at 31 sous in Brittany against 591 in Anjou next door, so smuggling followed — of 4,788 arrests at Laval between 1759 and 1788, more than half were women and children. By 1970 the marshes were nearly lost to a marina development; the paludiers organised instead, and won a Label Rouge in 1991, a Ramsar listing in 1995 and EU protected status for sel de Guérande in March 2012.

On the shelf with it

Sold on its own, and in these blends.