Ingredients · Spice

Saffron

Crocus sativus · Iridaceae (iris family)

Saffron
The most expensive spice in the world, and the arithmetic explains why: each flower gives three stigmas, and it takes roughly 150,000 flowers — some 440,000 hand-picked threads — to make a kilogram. The plant is sexually sterile, so every saffron crocus on earth is a clone, multiplied by hand from corms. Two products carry it. A pinch is genuinely enough; too much turns medicinal, and the threads should be steeped in warm liquid before they go in.

What it’s like, and how to use it

The partStigma
KindSpice
CaffeineCaffeine-free
Where it is fromSpain
TasteMetallic honey with grassy, hay-like notes, floral and faintly bitter; it colours everything gold

How to use it

Steep the threads in a few tablespoons of warm water, stock or milk for ten minutes, then add liquid and all. Never sprinkle it in dry. In paella, risotto alla milanese, Persian tahdig, biryani, bouillabaisse. In Swedish lussekatter on St Lucy's Day and Cornish saffron buns. Crush the threads between your fingers first. A large pinch does a whole pan.

With food

Rice. Chicken, rabbit and seafood. Almond and pistachio. Honey. Orange. Cream and custard. Fennel and tomato. Sweet dough.

With spices

Cardamom and rose, in the Persian direction. Cinnamon. Turmeric, which does colour where saffron does flavour. Black pepper. Fennel.

With tea

Kashmiri kahwa, where it is traditional. Darjeeling. Earl Grey. Chamomile.

Its story

Where it comes from

Probably descended from the wild Crocus cartwrightianus, with genetic work pointing to domestication in southern Greece. Iran grows about 90 per cent of the world crop today, then Afghanistan. Spain's La Mancha has a protected designation since 2001 — a century ago Spain made around 140 tonnes a year from 13,000 hectares, and in 2022 around 450 kg. Our product is titled Spanish; the operator has the supplier record — the jar says "Selected Saffron packed in Spain" by Antonio García Iñesta S.L. of Novelda. State packed in Novelda, Spain; the growing region is not on the jar.

What happened

Frescoes at Akrotiri on Thera, sealed under volcanic ash around 1600 BC, show young girls and monkeys gathering saffron — three and a half thousand years of the same harvest. A seventh-century BC Assyrian botanical reference compiled under Ashurbanipal mentions it. Its history is full of theft and punishment: nobles hijacked an 800-pound shipment bound for Basel and a fourteen-week war followed until it was returned; Nuremberg's Safranschou code punished adulterators with fines, prison and burning. Essex's Chipping Walden renamed itself Saffron Walden by the 1540s for the crop, and its arms show the crocus inside castle walls — a pun, saffron walled-in. The Pennsylvania Dutch were growing it by 1730, after German Schwenkfelders carried corms over, and it fetched a price equal to gold. One thing worth saying plainly: safflower is not saffron, however often it is sold as it.

On the shelf with it

Sold on its own, and in these blends.