Ingredients · Salt

Smoked Sea Salt

Sodium chloride

Smoked Sea Salt
Sea salt smoked over bark-free wood — and worth distinguishing from smoke-flavoured salt, which is ordinary salt carrying an added smoke agent. Real smoked salt takes on the character of whatever wood it was smoked over: alder, apple, cherry, hickory, mesquite and oak are the usual ones, and the flavour runs from a whisper to a wall. The shop carries three named woods and this generic one. A note for the label: whether a given lot is smoked or smoke-flavoured is a supplier question, and the two are not the same product.

What it’s like, and how to use it

The partMineral
KindSalt
CaffeineCaffeine-free
TasteClean brine under woodsmoke — the strength depends entirely on the wood and the length of the smoking

How to use it

As a finishing salt, where the smoke is the point and is not cooked away. On eggs, grilled meat, roast vegetables, popcorn, chocolate and caramel. As a vegetarian stand-in for the smokiness of bacon. Use it at the end; cooking it into a dish wastes it.

With food

Eggs. Grilled and roast meat. Potato and corn. Chocolate and caramel. Tomato. Cheese. Beans.

With spices

Black pepper. Paprika, smoked or sweet. Garlic. Chipotle. Cayenne.

With tea

Not a tea ingredient, though Lapsang Souchong is the tea equivalent of the idea.

Its story

Where it comes from

The salt is sea salt; the wood is what varies. No sea, saltworks or wood is named for this lot.

What happened

Smoking food probably goes back to the Paleolithic, and for most of history it was a way to keep things rather than to flavour them. Salt and wood have been tied together in northern kitchens for a long time in another way too: on Læsø in Denmark, where the groundwater can exceed 15 per cent salt, medieval salt-makers boiled brine in hundreds of wood-fired kilns until the island was deforested, sandstorms buried villages and salt-making was banned outright. It resumed on a small scale only in the late 1980s. Smoked salt's modern competitor has a date: liquid smoke, made by condensing wood smoke, was first sold commercially in the United States in 1895.

On the shelf with it

Every product it goes into.